PATAGONIA GUEST TRIP 2
Mrs. G’s guests joined her on Timoneer 17th February in Ushuaia, Argentina, “The gateway to Antarctica”.
The next morning we cleared out of Argentina and motored to Puerto Williams to clear in to Chile. We then continued past the Logos, one of the latest shipwrecks, which was a library ship before hitting the rocks in 1988. We also passed penguins on our way to Puerto Toro, a small fishing village where we anchored for the night. The next morning was a stunner with blue skies and light winds. We motored South past the East side of Wollaston Is. and through the narrows to the West of Herschel Is. The weather continued to be kind to us and so we continued South with 15’ (5m) swells as we passed the impressive cliffs of Cape Horn. We rounded the Horn from West to East and into the lee of Isla de Hornas. After a tricky landing on a rocky beach we huffed and puffed our way up the many stairs to go and visit the lighthouse keeper and buy a few souvenirs from him. After a few photos at the lighthouse and more at the albatross monument we returned to Timoneer and motored north to anchor in Caleta Martial on Herschel Is. where we had our first encounter with the very friendly dolphins.
Cape Horn Albatross Monument
In the morning we continued North and back in to the relative safety of the Beagle Channel. We stopped at Caleta Lennox to stretch our legs ashore. The family of the lighthouse keeper was very appreciative of the school supplies we took ashore. While ashore we were treated to seeing a beautiful King penguin at close range. On the way back to the yacht we had an escort of excited dolphins. We left with 2 reefs in the main and the staysail and had a great sail for 2 hours to Picton Is. where we anchored for the night
The next day the weather continued to stun us with another sunny day and we stopped at Martillo Is. to see a nesting colony of Magellan penguins. They were very cute and completely unconcerned by us. That evening we spent anchored off Pto. Williams and some ventured ashore to sample Pisco Sours at the Yacht Club, which is in a shipwreck.
Magellan Penguins
In the morning we motored west past Ushuaia to a beautiful little bay, Caleta Olla, where we anchored with 2 lines ashore and were treated to a magical sunset. In the morning “Laura” the lamb was spit roasted over an open fire. The weather was hot, the lamb was perfect and we couldn’t have had a better beach BBQ in Patagonia. While on the beach we met mountaineers returning from a 4-day trip conquering the ice-covered peak high above the bay. They joined us for cocktails that evening and amongst them was Simon Yates, of “Touching the Void” fame. All were very interesting people.
Laura the lamb
We then headed in to glacier country. One of the first was Ventisquero Romanche, which had a huge waterfall coming out of it and tumbling down a massive rock face into the sea. From there we went into Fiordo Pia and were surrounded by spectacular views as we headed up the West Arm to where we were confronted by willi waws which stirred up spray off the sea and buffeted us with winds up to 60 knots. We anchored in the East Arm for the night and took a tender ride to the glacier face in the morning. It performed right on cue and calved for us sending out waves around the bay. On the way back to Timoneer we stopped at a beautiful waterfall coming from high up the mountains above. From there we stopped in at Fiordo Garibaldi to be surrounded by more amazing scenery and blue sky. We got within 0.25miles of the glacier before heading back down the fiord to anchor where guests went ashore to pick wild flowers.
Fiordo Pia
The next morning we moved on to Seno Ventisquero, yet another spectacular glacier. We stopped in for a close encounter with sea lions sunning themselves on the rocks before continuing West to Pto. Engano, Londonderry Is. Some of the crew climbed the surrounding hills for great views back down onto Timoneer.
Heading West along Canal Ballenero we sighted 2 humpback whales blowing and showing their tales. After 2 dives we lost them. We arrived in Seno Occasion and were anchored with 2 stern lines and a bow line ashore when a 60’ French yacht arrived and wanted to go behind us and tie ashore between our stern lines. This provided some great cocktail hour entertainment.
In the morning we left the French and headed along Canal Brecknock and out into the Pacific swell for a few miles. It was quite strange feeling the yacht moving after so long on flat waters. We did a side trip in to Seno Bluff and were awarded with incredible reflections on the sea. The entrance into the West arm was very narrow and shallow but opened in to a huge sheltered basin. Steamer ducks that no matter how hard they tried never took off entertained us. We Stopped for the night further East along Canal Cockburn in Pto. King.
We were treated to another fine day and so went exploring Seno Chico and with the tender guiding us we entered the very narrow Fiordo Alacaluf passing within 30’ (9m) of the most spectacular waterfall of the trip roaring down into the water beside us. We continued into the 1.5mile long arm pushing our way slowly through the bergy bits until we could finally see where they were coming from, an amazingly blue glacier. After Chanon took a few photos from the top of the mast we headed North into Canal Magdalena passing near Cabo Froward, the most southern tip of continental South America and onto the wide open Bahia San Nicolas.
Fiordo Alacaluf Falls
Glacier Alacaluf
Timoneer in ice
The sunrise turned the water golden and dolphins turned up to chase the crew tender around the yacht. Soon after sunrise we started steaming north to arrive in Punta Arenas in time for lunch. The guests spent the afternoon exploring ashore.
The 2nd March was time for the guests to head home and just to make their last tender journey more memorable the wind picked up to 35 knots making full wet weather gear a must. Everyone made it to the airport safe and dry finishing an incredible 2 weeks of exploring Southern Patagonia and Tierra Del Fuego.
Dolphins
Shipwreck in Punta Arena
JC
